FILA is one of those iconic brands which has had its ups and downs but did you ever wonder about its captivating history? Before the hype, before the comeback, this is the story of two brothers from northern Italy.
Humble roots
Italian fashion names often share common roots, emphasising high quality craftsmanship and innovative design. FILA, too, emerged from this tradition, born in the Alps of Northern Italy, in a quaint town called Biella, west of Milan. The Fila brothers, Ettore and Giansevero, joined Giuseppe Regis & Sons wool mill in 1911 and after the Regis family withdrew, FILA was founded in 1923, primarily crafting quality handmade undergarments and knitwear. FILA’s reputation for premium goods quickly spread beyond its hometown.
In 1923, a partnership with Maglificio Biellese catapulted FILA into the larger Italian fashion market, setting the stage for impressive growth and widespread acclaim.
FILA’s foray into tennis and sports endorsements
As FILA’s sales soared, they recognised a gap in the sportswear market during the 1970s and brought Enrico Frachey on board as the Managing Director. This strategic move led to their entry into major sports endorsements, with a particular focus on tennis, which was growing in popularity since the 1968 Open Era transition, and this would be the ideal global platform the FILA brand needed in order to reach audiences worldwide.
In 1973, FILA made an impactful move in the world of tennis, introducing the White Line collection, a vibrant and flamboyant departure from the traditional all-white attire. This collection, with its defined lines featuring understatedly bold yet stylish designs, was a hit among fans and players alike.
Björn Borg takes the brand to stratospheric levels
However, FILA’s true breakthrough came with the endorsement of tennis legend Björn Borg in the 1970s, launching a full-scale assault on the tennis industry. Borg’s reputation, charisma and athletic prowess resonated with fans, making FILA a trailblazer in bold and fashionable athletic wear. The company’s revenues reached staggering levels, and FILA became synonymous with premium athletic wear and the European tennis look, which was adopted worldwide.
The future looks… not so bright
The 1990s brought a new wave of success for FILA, as basketball emerged as a cultural phenomenon. Signing basketball greats like Grant Hill and Chris Webber further solidified FILA’s position as a key player in both tennis and basketball fashion history.
The FILA Disruptor Low sneaker became a pop culture sensation in the 90s, gaining popularity both on and off the court. The brand even garnered respect among hip-hop stars, adding yet another layer to the brand’s cultural relevance at the time, after which, the brand seemed to tank and disappear pretty much overnight. One of the main reasons was the fact the brand spread itself much too thin and was stuck with very expensive endorsement contracts at a time when business started to fizzle out.
Restructuring and reinvention
After years of takeovers by Asian hedge fund and licensing companies, FILA seems to have made a recent comeback in tennis and that solely has to do with the vintage clothing revival, their new retro inspired designs and Borg’s reputation, which is still relevant and very much respected today.
The original men’s White Line made popular by Borg and also worn by Guillermo Vilas (among others), has been re-launched entirely under the “Settanta Collection” (settanta meaning seventy in Italian), it carries a premium price tag and is very popular indeed, thus increasing prices for vintage FILA apparel as a result. The modern women’s line is very impressive and will surely be a classic post-retro series in the future. After all, cycles repeat themselves every 25-35 years so it’s just a matter of time.
